Zinc plating your parts what ever they may be used for later, is an excellent way of making them look attractive and at the same time protecting them from corrosion. Zinc plating is what is known as sacrificial plateing that is plated on to surfaces of steel, brass or copper. It is named sacrificial because over a long period of time the zinc plate is sacrificed to the atmosphere to protect the item that has been plated. In spite of this zinc will last for years especially if it is polished with metal polish to provide a protective film on the zinc surface. Motorcycle restorers and some car restorers prefer to use zinc because the nuts, bolts, and brackets etc. on the motorcycle or car they are working on were originally zinc plated.

The zinc kit contains…A pack of white powder, there are 4 different chemicals in this blend, when mixed with water as per instructions in the kit book this will make up your plating electrolyte. There is a bottle of additive to be added to the mix and a bottle of brightener. Zinc discs are supplied to hang in the bath to act as plating anodes. A Laboratory type power supply is included to supply the necessary DC current. All required wiring and clips are provided along with hanging bars to place across the top of the plating bath.

There is a very easy to follow instruction book included in each kit. It is most important to read the book before you start on your plating. The kits have proven them selves time and time again, they work very well providing that the user follows the instructions in the book. All electroplating works on the system of electrolysis. In this system a bath of a suitable electrolyte is used. The parts to be plated are suspended in the bath on copper wire. Anodes of the metal to be deposited on to the parts are also suspended in the bath on stainless wire. DC electrical current is passed through the bath, the parts to be plated are connected to the negative side of the power source and the anodes are connected to the positive side of the power supply. The result is that ions of the metal are taken from the zinc anodes and transferred to the surface of the parts to be plated.

To carry out any sort of plating be it nickel, zinc or copper set your bath up as per the instructions in the kit book, refer to the diagram if you are in doubt. Items to be plated must be spotlessly and chemically clean, all traces of rust, grease, or old plating must be removed. There is a section in the book on old plating removal and we have a cleaner kit available.

One question frequently asked is “ What is the best kit for me, nickel or zinc”. Both of these kits work well, one of the main differences is that nickel must be heated to plate at 50 Deg. C. Zinc plating is done at room temperature, 25 to 30 Deg. C is ideal. The surface of the zinc plated part is silver whereas the surface of nickel is more like highly polished stainless steel. Over a very long period nickel is the longer lasting protective surface.

There is a dual kit available which enables you to plate in either nickel or zinc

We have a product called Goldbrite, which is a passivate chromate dip, which enables you to colour the zinc plating a golden colour.

We also have Blue Dip which is a passivate chromate. Using the Blue Dip gives the zinc plate a slightly blue colour similar to chrome plate. The chromate dips also help corrosion resistance. Which is the best kit for you is up to yourself to decide.

The chemical crystals that are supplied in your kit are mixed with water to make up a certain size electrolyte bath. This will depend on the size of kit you have purchased. ie. if you have purchased a 4 litre kit, you chemical and water mixed together must make a 4 litre bath, 10 ltr. kit 10 ltr. bath and so on.

Firstly mix the chemical crystals with distilled water or rain water using half of the water required for the final bath. When the crystals are dissolved, top the bath up with water until the bath contains the final amount.