The copper plating method described here is the system using electrolysis, which is the system that is used in industry and in plating shops.

The type of copper electrolyte that we supply is acid copper, which is user friendly. This type of copper will not plate on to bare steel. Bare steel must be nickel plated first and then copper plated. To copper plate on to bare steel cyanide copper must be used, owing to the dangers of using cyanide products we do not stock cyanide copper. In a lot of cases copper is used to build up a soft surface over marks or scratches, which can then be sanded before plating in nickel or zinc. Parts can be left in a copper bath for long periods to build up a thick coat of copper. The copper bath is used at room temperature, which is 25/30 Deg. C. I find that the copper bath works best at 30 C. This is also mentioned in a plating book that I have.

The copper plating kit contains a Laboratory type power supply with all the necessary wiring and clips. The copper electrolyte in powder form is to be mixed with water as per instructions in the kit book. Copper anodes, hanging bars, stainless wire on which to hand plating work and anodes. There is a very informative kit book, which comes with all the kits. This book covers all aspects of setting up for plating, cleaning, and has a section on faults that may be encountered in the plating process.

The most important part of the plating process is the cleaning of the parts to be plated; the parts must be spotlessly clean and chemically clean. Parts that have any traces of film of any sort on them will plate poorly and the plate will tend to peel off. The most valuable test is the water break test where the part is dipped in clean water; the water should hang on the surface of the part in a thin unbroken sheet. Any beading indicates poor cleaning and the part will not plate successfully. The better the preparation and cleaning of the parts the better the final result will be. Cleaners containing solvents should not be used, water based cleaners will ensure success.

A suitable electrolyte is mixed in a container and electrical current is passed through the mix. The mixed chemical is known as electrolyte. Hanging bars are placed on the top of the container, which is known as a plating bath. Items to be plated are suspended from the bars on copper wire. Either side of the plating work copper anodes are hung on hanging bars using stainless wire. The wires from the DC power supply are connected to the bath. Negative wire is connected to the plating work and positive wire is connected to the anodes. The electrical current passes from the anodes to the parts to be plated in the bath and takes with It ions of metal from the anodes. This process will successfully put a smooth coat of copper in about 45 mins. There are full instructions in the kit book on how to set up the bath and get started. There is also a diagram in the book to ensure that it is all done correctly.

1. Power supply, laboratory type to provide DC current to the plating bath
2. Chemical in powder form for you to mix your electrolyte.
3. Brighteners for the type of plating you are intending to do.
4. Copper Anodes.
5. Pipes to be used as hanging bars for the plating jobs and anodes.
6. Copper wire to be used to suspend your plating jobs in the plating bath.
7. Stainless wire to be used to suspend your anodes in the plating bath.
8. Bridging wire to bridge the 2 anode bars together.
9. Jane Kits instruction manual.